1995 z32 TT
1992 z32 TT
Accent Stripe
AIV Delete
Badgeless Rear Panel
Battery Optima Red Top
Big Brakes
Boost Gauge
Boost Sensor Hose
Boost Jets
Brake Idiot Light
Brake Master Cylinder
Butterfly Throttle Body
Carbon Canister Delete
Carpet Hole Repair
Center Console Removal
Classified ad
Clutch MC and Bleed
Cone Air Filter Placement
Connectors Under Hood
Delete & Bypass
Dyno Runs
Earthing Kit
Engine Pull
EGR Delete
Front Fascia
Fuel Line Clamps
Funky Fuses
Gear Shift Knob
Hatch Lock Stuck
Hella Horns
Hood Squeak
Idle Air Adjustment
Injector Dremel
Injector Testing
Interior Hatch Trim Repair
Jacking Car
Manual Boost Controller
Molding Replacement
Nose Panel
Parking Brake
Plenum Pull
PRVR Removal and Bypass
Pressure Wash
Radiator Hard Pipe Leak
Radiator Howe
Rear Interior Trim
Robo's Rules of Z-Dom
Seat Removal
Shock Install
Spare Tire
Speedometer 180 mph
Stereo Installation
Taillights JDM
Temperature Gauge
Throttle Sticking
Vacuum Lines
When TT.net Goes Down
1987 z31 T
2004 Tacoma
2011 Tacoma
1974 Mercedes 450 SL
12 Hours of Sebring
24 Hours of Le Mans
AACA 2004 Hershey
Garage Remodel
Misc Album Pics
Misc Linked Pics
Numidia Raceway
Watkins Glen
Interesting Links
For Sale
Contact & Feedback

If the stock boost gauge on the dash stops working, but the car still feels like it's boosting, then the problem is probably a cracked or split boost hose at the boost sensor.

The black box next to the blue arrow is the boost sensor.  The hose can look fine, but when it goes bad, it's usually cracks where it attaches right at the box.   You have to remove the hose to check it.  A temporary fix is to just trim a quarter inch or so off the end of the hose then reattach it.  

The yellow circle is the same boost sensor shown above.  I used 6mm red silicone hose to replace my stock cracked rubber hose.  Just remove the old hose, cut the new hose to length and replace in less than five minutes.

The yellow arrow is a close up of the boost hose connected to the balance tube on the passenger side.  If the car still has AIV's, it will look different since there will also be a T-connector splicing a hose from the AIV solenoid into the same nipple.  

The vacuum line at the green arrow above leads to the passenger side recirculation valve, at the front of the car. 

Yeah, I realize my balance tube is all scratched up.  Maybe I will get it powder coated one of these days.

A more preferable option may be to use this nipple off of the driver's side of the balance tube, which is much closer to the boost sensor, shown capped below.   

This hardline off of the balance tube is in line and very close to  the boost sensor.  The nipple was freed up by first eliminating the carbon cannister

This alternate hook-up for the boost sensor accomplishes three things. First, the boost sensor hose becomes much shorter, which is presumably better for boost gauge response.  Second, there is much less hose to develop leaks.  Finally, the stock nipple where the boost hose used to be attached, on the far side of the balance tube, is a more natural choice for a connection to an aftermarket vacuum operated boost gauge.  The nipple on the passenger side is in a good location to use for a boost gauge that needs a vacuum line run through the firewall to the interior.  Of course, if you're hooking up an aftermarket boost gauge, then you may no longer be concerned about your stock boost sensor hook-up ;c)

Clear as mud?